Mounting the Remote Digital Readout

The router lift is designed with a 16 tooth per inch screw to adjust the height, which means if you rotate the crank one full rotation you raise the router 1/16". Although that's a pretty handy feature, I decided that I still wanted to be able to see exactly what height the router bit was, rather than try to keep track of the number of rotations. Also, you can zero the dial readout on the top of the router lift, but it's just not as easy as pressing a button.

So I decided that as long as I was sinking the money into the router table and lift, that I'd buy a remote readout. I chose the iGaging DigiMAG 6" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout which I purchased for $29 shipped from Amazon. The remote readout allows me to determine the height without craning my neck to look under the table and the magnets on the back of the display allow me to easily remove the display when I need to pull the lift from the table, usually when I need the router motor for a hand-held operation.

Mounting the Transducer

The digital readout comes with a few different brackets for mounting it to the machine of your choice. Unfortunately they didn't have a bracket for exactly the way I wanted to mount the transducer, but I was able to modify one of the included ones to work by creating some additional holes so I could use it on the transducer body rather then the rail ends like it was intended.

 

To mount the transducer to the router lift I needed to drill and tap two sets of holes for 6-32 screws, one set of stopped holes on the underside of the baseplate (don't want the screws poking through the surface) and the other set of through-holes on the lower part of the router carriage.

To tap a stopped hole, it would be handy to have a bottoming tap. That is a tap with no taper so you can create threads at the bottom of a stopped hole, although you need to start with a taper tap first. Since taper taps are what is commonly available that's what I ended up using. I was lucky the plate was thick enough to give me a few good threads with the taper tap.

 

With the holes tapped, all that remained was to screw the transducer to the lift. Since I didn't want the transducer vibrating loose I used both a washer and lock washer. If it really becomes a problem I'll have to try some Loc-Tite

I didn't have any 6-32 screws short enough for the underside of the baseplate, so I cut my own using the screw cutter that you find on most crimping pliers.

 

Mounting the Readout

I planned on mounting the readout on front edge of the table. I wanted it to stick out at an angle for maximum readability. Since the readout attaches with magnets, I needed to find a magnetic material to make the mount.

I dug out a sheet of 22ga galvanized steel that I inherited with the shop and cut another hunk out of it. I used a bench vise to bend the edges 90º, finished bending with a pair of Channel Lock pliers, and hammered them flat.

 

 

Then I bent the steel the front part of the mount so it was about the size of the readout. To finish it off I sanded off all the corrosion and painted it with some gloss black high performance enamel spray paint.

 

Now all that's left is to do is add some more T-track to attach a fence, build some proper legs, and attach all the electronics to the table.

Tools: aviation snips, ball peen hammer, bench vise, crimper, drill bit, drill press, tap wrench, taper tap

Materials: digital position readout, lock washer, pan head screw, sheet metal, spray paint, washer

Comments

Tom's picture

Looks like this project is rolling along. Looks good.