Completed Router Table (Mostly)

After competing the router table top, I noticed that I didn't have a reliable way of holding down the fence. Sure I could use some clamps, but since I had a two foot section of T-track lying around, I figured that T-bolts would be the easiest way to keep the fence in place.

Installing T-Track

I cut the T-track in half with my miter saw and cleaned up the edges with a file. Since there was only one screw hole in each 12" section if track, I drilled two more evenly spaced holes in each piece and used a counter-sink on each new hole to make sure the screw heads wouldn't interfere with the T-bolts.

 

Using my router with a plunge base and edge guide, I cut the slots for the T-track with a 3/4" straight router bit in two passes.

 

After I cut the slots and made sure that the T-track was flush with the table top, I drilled pilot holes and fastened the tracks to the table with #6 wood screws.

 

New Legs

I decided the router table was too high with the legs from my old router table, so I figured out the lowest the table could be and added about 1/2", making the new legs 10-1/2" high.

I constructed the legs out of 2x4s and some 3-1/2" wide strips of 3/4" plywood I ripped on the table saw. I used deck screws to assemble the legs, pre-drilling and counter-sinking all the holes.

 

I turned out that some of the screws holding the table top together were in the way of where I wanted to mount the legs on the underside of the table. So I needed to bury the screws so they were flush.

To center the counter-bore ,I first drill a though-hole in a piece of scrap and clamped that over the screw hole. Then I created the counter-bore with a 3/8" Forstner bit.

To make the process go faster I dusted off my 3/8" corded drill to drill the counter-bore and used my cordless drill to unscrew and rescrew the screws. After using a cordless drill for a while, you forget just how powerful a corded drill is!

 

Bracing the Table

Even after mounting the sturdier legs, I found that the weight of the router and the lift still pulled the center of the table down enough deform the surface.

To fix this I mounted a three foot section of angle iron to the bottom of the table with three large pan head screws to keep it from deforming. That took care of most of the sagging. If I really want make the table any flatter I can always add a shim under the middle screw.

 

Finished Table

Here's a quick walk-though of the final pieces: the speed controller mounted on the side of the leg plugs into the wall and allows me to vary the amount of voltage to the router. Then I have a safety switch that plugs into the speed controller. I mounted that under the front of the table which gives me a quick way to turn the router on and off. The router finally plugs into the safety switch.

On the front of the table I've hung my lift and collet wrenches for easy access. I've also mounted the bracket for the digital readout opposite the safety switch.

I'm pretty psyched about being done with the table. The first real project I'll build on the table is a new fence as I gave away my old router table to my father-in-law. I couldn't find all the original fence and dust collection pieces for the old table, so I just gave him the fence I was going to use.

Tools: corded drill, cordless drill, counter sink, drill press, file, Forstner, miter saw, router, table saw

Materials: angle iron, pan head screw, T-track, wood screw

Comments

Mike's picture

Just had a quick question. I noticed you have some red bins on your pegboard wall. How are you keeping them on the wall?  I use an aluminum yardstick which works pretty well, but I can't tell what you are using.

Benjamen Johnson's picture

Mike, I use the plastic rails that come with the plastic bins when you buy then in a set of 20 or so. The rails are screwed into a board which has two small scrap pieces butted againest either end. The reason for the end pieces is that I needed something to screw the L- screws into. The L- screws are what attaches the whole mess to the peg board. Here's a picture, it might make more sense:

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